THE NEEDLEBAR

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Directions for using the

Willcox & Gibbs Automatic Noiseless

Sewing Machine

(Part Three)


To Place the Work and Begin Sewing

Raise Needle to its highest point, also Presser Foot. Place work under point of Needle. Have two or three inches of thread drawn through the eye of Needle (NOTE -- unless the Needle Bar is at its highest point, the thread is held by the Automatic Tension, and cannot be drawn through).

Pass thread under Presser Foot, towards the left. Let down the Presser Foot, the thread being held fast between the Presser Foot and Cloth.

The thread may be held lightly under the finger, instead of being passed under the Presser Foot, in which case, hold it until two stitches are made. If held too tightly, the thread will break at the first stitch.

Crossing Seams

The Automatic Sewing Machine will give no trouble in passing over any ordinary seam. Very heavy seams may need a little assistance.

To Fasten Seam and to Take the Work Out

To Fasten the End of Seam -- Sew off end of seam two stitches: more than this may leave seam unlocked. Stop with Needle at its highest point. With left hand, catch thread between Needle and Thread Pin (6, Fig 9), and pull some slack through the Automatic Tension. With right hand, draw the slack through the eye of Needle, and, grasping thread firmly, cut the thread close to the goods. Lift Presser Foot and then pull the goods from you, and end of thread will be drawn through the loop. Next, pull end of thread, which will tighten the knot and fasten off the seam. If you cannot pull any slack thread from the spool, it is because the Needle Bar is not at its highest point.

To Fasten Seam in the Goods -- Stop the Needle in the goods, place the fingers on the goods close to Presser Foot to prevent goods from moving, raise Presser Foot, and take one more stitch in last hole made. Then break off thread, take out goods and fasten off as directed in preceding paragraph.

To Fasten Seam to be Trimmed or Cut -- Seams that you wish to trim from the finishing end should be fastened by sewing back in the same row of stitching, a little beyond the point of trimming. If it is necessary to trim the finishing end of a seam that has not been fastened as above, immediately after cutting, lock the seam by inserting a pin through loop on under side of goods, pulling end of thread through and drawing it backward upon the seam.

To Take Out Seam -- It is one of the decided advantages of the Automatic Sewing Machine, that, if required, its work can be taken to pieces, without injuring the goods, by simply unlocking the seam at any point, and drawing out the thread. The seam can only be take out in one direction, viz: towards the point of starting. It is therefore a good plan to begin all seams from the end most exposed.

To Turn a Corner -- Stop with Needle raised to its highest point; raise Presser Foot and turn the work. As the thread acts as a pivot the work will become displaced from the position where the Needle was withdrawn; therefore, readjust the work so that the Needle will enter it at proper distance from last stitch. Let Presser Foot down, and proceed.

Difficulties of Beginners

As in all things "Practice makes perfect", so in the operation of the Willcox & Gibbs Automatic Sewing Machine, all the varied kinds of work which can be done on it will be accomplished with ease and in perfection as you daily grow more accustomed to its use while closely following this book of instructions. When in trouble arising from inexperience or failure to observe these directions, the following important features should be specially observed:

"It will not feed" -- STITCH REGULATOR not set according to "Table" on CLOTH PLATE. Thread wound on LOOPER. Needle bent. Threads or ravellings caught on PRESSER FOOT. Cloth caught in HEMMER or other attachment. Very heavy seams will not pass under PRESSER FOOT without a little assistance (See "Crossing Seams").

"It ravels when I take the work out" -- Stop Machine with Needle at its highest point and before it runs off the cloth more than two stitches. Never turn Machine backward to raise Needle. This precaution will leave last stitch always locked.

"It drops stitches" -- Needle is bent, or not right size for thread according to "Table"; or you are using soft finished cotton.

"The thread breaks" -- Machine is not threaded up right. You did not start according to instructions. You are sewing goods too hard for Needle to penetrate without soaping, or you are using wrong sized Needle for the thread; black or colored soft finished cotton; or the thread is caught on spool or wound around SPOOL PIN; or Automatic Tension does not hold the thread (See "Tension does not work" below)

"The Looper winds up" -- Caused either by not holding on to end of thread in starting, or by not putting thread under PRESSER FOOT; or leaving PRESSER FOOT up; or stitch not right by "Table". When this difficulty occurs pull down the Cap and clear thread from LOOPER, being careful not to scratch LOOPER.

"It runs hard" -- Machine or Stand needs oiling, or you have been using poor oil that gums. Thread or ravellings are wound in between SMALL WHEEL and CONNECTION ROD -- this can occur only with our earlier AUTOMATIC and B-Machines. All our latest AUTOMATIC Sewing Machines have been so improved that this difficulty is entirely removed.

"Wheel turns backward" -- There is oil on rim of LARGE WHEEL (See directions for preventing Wheel turning backward).

"Belt slips" -- See directions to Tighten the Belt.

"Sewing is much too loose" -- You have a shorter stitch than required by "Table" or you have threaded through EMBROIDERY SPRING; or you have not drawn thread between the Tension Washers.

NOTE -- Imitation or bent Needles will cause loose stitches and breaking of thread.

"Tension does not work" -- A knot on thread may have broken off in AUTOMATIC TENSION. Raise Needle Bar to highest point, and draw a piece of folded writing paper between Washers, both front and back of Tension.

Accident to Machine

In case of accident, unscrew Machine from Table, pack tightly in a small box, so that it will not be shaken about in transit, and send by Express to us, or any of our Branches for repair. First tie a tag or card with your name and full address to the Machine before sealing up the box, and give the office to which you send it full particulars, stating also number of Machine. Do not send the Thumb Screw or Attachments.

Address: --

WILLCOX & GIBBS S. M. Co.,

658 Broadway, New York.


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