1. Twelve Needles, assorted
2. Six Shuttle bobbins
3. Tucking Gauge, with thumbscrew
4. One adjustable Hemmer
5. One Narrow Hemmer
6. One Medium Hemmer
7. One Seam Feller
8. One Ordinary Presser
9. One Cording Presser No. 1
10. One Cording Presser No. 2
12. One Friller
13. One adjustable Binder
14. One Quilting Gauge
15. One Screw-driver
16. One Oil-can
17. One Instruction Book
18. One extra Needle-plate, with large
hole for thick materials.
(This is only given with theMedium machine)
If a seam has to be made parallel to an edge, screw this apparatis into hole 4 of the cloth-plate, and adjust its straight-edge to the same distance from the needle as you wish the seam to be from the edge of the work.
This attachment is used for making tucks, and also when it is desired to sew in a straight line, or when two parallel lines of stitching are required. The troublesome drawing of lines is thereby avoided.
This hemmer is secured, in the place of the ordinary presser, by the screw at 13, Fig 1. The end of the fabric you wish to hem, after being turned down for about 1/8 of an inch, is placed into the twist of the hemmer, as shown in Fig 7, and comes out with a double hem beautifully turned down, whose inner edge is guided straight under the needle. The fabric must be pulled by means of a thread, or pushed with a pin, far enough forward for the needle to catch it; then let down the presser, and begin to sew carefully.
In hemming, the fabric must be guided so that the mouth of the hemmer is completely filled up, in order to permit of the hem being turned down sufficiently. Too much material must not be allowed to enter; this defect would easily arise from the fabrics being pressed more or less inwards while entering the hemmer. A few trials will soon show the right manipulation.
The hemmer must always cause the stitches to be made close to the edge of the hem.
A seam may be beautifully made by this hemmer, with a degree of precision for a long time not attained by any sewing machine. To do this lay hte two pieces of stuff to be joined one above the other, as is customary in hand-sewing, and sew them together at a sufficient distance from the edge to form later on a hem. Then cut the lower piece of stuff as close as possible to the seam, and let the upper pass through the hemmer, which can be done with such extreme accuracy as to need scarcely any guidance with the hand.
To make a wide hem, fold the stuff to the desired width (taking into account the width that will ultimately be turned down) and pass the edge through the hemmer in the manner above described.
To make a wide hem on thick stuffs, use the ordinary presser shown fixed to the machine in Fig 1. After turning down the hem in the way customary in hand-sewing, place it under the narrow right tongue of the presser, so that the other tongue acts as a kind of gauge and enables you to sew regularly at the edge of the hem. But this class of work is better done by the adjustable hemmer (see Fig 8)
The adjustable hemmer is screwed to the cloth-plate in the same way as the rocking dauge. To introduce the material, turn down its edge about 3/8 of an inch, and then draw it, according to width of hem required, through the hemmer under the needle, in doing which care must be taken always to allow sufficient material to enter for the hem to be turned down double.
To adjust this hemmer to hems of different widths, loosen the screw in the slit a little, which will release the graduated plate. The smallest hem is made when the index is at the right-hand end of scale. The screw must be secured again before sewing.
The seam-feller is screwed on to the machine in the same way as the narrow hemmer. In felling a seam, lay the two materials together, but let the edge of the lower piece project about 1/4 of an inch. It is this projecting adge alone which must be run through the seam-feller, again through the feller to be atitched down.
With the aid of this simple little accessory a piece of stuff may be frilled and a band sewed on at one operation. This, like the other attachments, is fastened to the machine by the screw 13, Fig 1. Place the material to be frilled underneath the foot, and the band above through the slit in the friller. As the feed points work only upon the under material, whilst the upper is shoelded from them by the slit, the under is gathered in small pleats -- the longer the stitch the fuller the pleat. The management of this apparatus requires some practice.
Frilling can also be done without this attachment, both on two-fold and on single-fold stuff, in the following way:-- Set a long stitch and a loose upper tension, so that the lower thread lies straight along the fabric, then pull the end of this lower thread, push the work together from both sides, as is done in performing the same operation by hand, and the frill is ready.
Wind your braid (which should be soft, as a hard braid is difficult to work upon) on an ordianry rell, keeping it as flat and as regular as possible. Then put the reel on its spindle at 27, Fig 1, and pass the braid through the eye at 19. The braiding attachment shown above has an opening in it, in front of the needle-hol, through which the braid is drawn so as to pass right under the needle. Th size of the opening may be adjusted by means of the screw at the side.
The work has now only to be guided in order to produce any required design.
The corder is used for sewing cord in collars, cuffs, &c. It has two grooves on its under surface, which guide the cord and also press the upper material round it, so that the work has a beautiful raised appearance.
Make a row of stitching along the material, then spread the material open and place the cord against the seams, close the material and make a mark down beside the cord with any sharp instrument, and stitch in the mark. See that it always runs in that groove of the corder which is next the needle, that is, which lies immediately under the needle. In sewing several rows of cord parallel to one another, the row last sewed goes in the right-hand groove, the one to be sewed in the left.
This corder, which is fastened in the usual way to the machine, is furnished with one large groove on its under surface, its object being to sew a cord round the skirt of a dress, &c. After the dress material and the lining have been sewed together in the usual way, spread them out with the right side uppermost, then lay the cord in groove of the presser and sew it with rather large stitches exactly over the seam, that is to say, between lining and dress. When the lining is turned up the cord will be at the edge of the skirt.
This attachment is used for binding articles of clothing, hats, &c., without it being necessary to tack on the binding first. Adjust the Binder to the width of the Binding by sliding the Guide nearer to, or farther from the hooks. Place the end of the Binding in the Binder with its edges in the hooks of the Binder, so that it will pass easily through. Then attach the Binder to the Machine, by means of the thumb screw, so that the needle
will pass as near the edge of the Binding as may be required. Place the edge of the article to be bound between the hooks of the Binder and close to the guide, and proceed to sew it on. The distance of the stitching from the edge of the Binding may be varied by moving the guids of the Binder nearer to, or farther from the needle.
The quilting gauge is an exceedingly useful attachmenty, as by its help rows of equal breadth and symmetrical corners may be sewed without it being necessary to draw them first on the material.
The gauge must be fixed with the thumb-screw, as shown in the above Fig 15, and may be adjusted to mark off the desired width between two rows of sewing.
When using it, make first of all an ordianry straight seam, then push your material as far to the right from the needle as you wish the width to be between two rows, and fasten the gauge so that its lower part is just on the first seam, which it should closely follow whilst you are sewing the second. The third should be sewed whilst the gauge is following the second, and so on. The same with the cross seams.
The best squares are made it the material is stitched on to the wadding itself, without lining.
(This appliance is NOT included with the Ayttachments given gratis with each machine, but is charged for extra, price 2/- each)
DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE TUCK-MARKER -- Attach the marker to the machine by means of the thumb-screw, passing the needle through the eye in the wire upon the marker-lever. Adjust the guide to the desired width for the tuck, and the marker to the required distance for the line of stitching for the centre of the the next tuck. Fix both thumb-screws firmly, then crease the first tuck, place it under the measure-bar, stitch the tuck, and the action of the marker will gauge and mark the next one ready for folding.
(This paragraph only refers to the Medium Machine)
As before stated, an extra needle-plate with large hole is given with each machine, which must be substituted for the other when working upon thick materials with a coarse needle -- tailoring for instance. It must always be used when sewing with linen thread.
In changing the needle-plate you should go carefully to work, especially taking care that, when it is screwed down, the needle moves freely up and down in its hole, and does not tough the shuttle as it descends.
It will be noticed that the presser-lifter pin has a sharp cutting edge. This is for cutting the thread when the work is withdrawn, instead of using scissors.
In order to release the shuttle, pull the shuttle slide (No. 1, Fig 1) out as far as it will come: this will automatically throw the shuttle out.
A description of the way in which the stitch is formed, by means of the shuttle, may all the better be introduced here, that it will help to explain the proper treatment of the machine. The needle (whose eye is close to the point) in piercing the material, carries with it under the needle-plate, part of the upper thread, which, as the needle rises, forms a loop into which the point of the shuttle enters, enlarging it and inter-locking the two threads, as shown in the above figure. This loop, with the under-thread drawn through it, is then carried up tight into the material by the ascending needle, and by the enlarging of the loop forming the next stitch.
When a machine is in constant use it should be oiled frequently. The little holes which may be observed on it are oil-hole, and lead to those places subject to friction. Raise the cloth-presser and set the needle at its highest; then remove carefully, with a soft rag, all old oil, dust, and dirt, and let a drop of oil trickle out of the oil-can (given with each machine) on the following places:--
1. The hole, No 28, situated on th right of the arm, and No 29 near it
2. The hole, No 25, to the left of the arm, and No 24 near it
3.The holes, Nos 30 and 31, on the side of the arm
4. The holes at No 9, and in the front of the needle-plate at No 6
5. The joint (49) of the pitman (43) with the crank (see Fig 2), is oiled after turning the upper fly-wheel round until it can be clearly seen through the slot of the stitch regulator
6. The sides of the needle-bar No 21 (Fig 1), and the shuttle-carrier slide
7. The feed-bar and bobbin-winder, on which there are three oil-holes
8. On the shuttle, which must always be kept thoroughly clean, and on the points of its bobbins when they are filled and set in position
9. The hole at the side of the head-plate (when the needle is set at its lowest)
When, from time to time, a thorough cleaning is advisable, turn the machine on its hinges (as shown in Fig 2), carefully remove all old oil, and then re-oil the places numbered 36, 37, 38, 40, 41, 42, 47, and 49. In the stand the following places have to be oiled:-- The fly-wheel, where it turns on its axis; two ends of the wooden pitman, which moves the fly-wheel; and, lastly, each side of the treadle.
Use only our specially prepared sewing machine oil, which combines all the requirements of a perfect lubricant free from all foreign and deleterious matter, and is quite odourless and stainless. Each bottle bears our name. Vegetable oil must be strictly avoided, as it clogs the machine, and makes it run heavy, and at last stick fast.
Every part being oiled, in the manner before described, take out the shuttle, set the machine rapidly in motion for a minute or so, and wipe off the superfluous oil before commencing to sew.
HAND APPLIANCE -- The parts of the Hand Appliance being subject to considerable friction, it is therefore necessary that all its parts should be kept well oiled, especially the BOLT on which the large cog-wheel turns. A small hole is made for oiling this special part.
If the machine does not run easily whilst is use it is either because you have forgotten to oil one part, or because the oil has become too thick. In the latter case, oil every hole with pure paraffin (which dissolves all dirt) (Note: paraffin = US kerosene, AQ), work the machine rather quickly both backwards and forwards, clean thoroughly, and lubricate afresh with the usual machine oil, when the difference will be immediately felt.
Every machine is perfectly adjusted and sent out in perfect working order. Should the learner therefore find a difficulty in working it at the outset, the fault usually lies in her inexperience. Under these circumstances it is advisable to see if the needle is properly set and the tension correctly adjusted, in accordance with the directions given in pages 4 and 7, before any alteration in the machine itself is attempted.
Should the thread break, it is either because:--
1. The tension is too great (see page 7); or
2. The needle is too fine; or
3. The needle is not properly set, or does not move freely in its hole (see page 4); or
4. The eye of the needle is sharp, or the point blunt, which is almost sure to be the cause of the evil if the thread is found to be frayed at the place of breaking; or
5. The feed-points do not push forward the work with regularity, or are impeded in their action by dirt, ends of threads, or want of oil; or
6. The needle-plate is not properly secured; or
7. The Shuttle-Tension Screw is projecting
If stitches are dropped, it is due to one of the following causes:--
1. The needle is set too low, or is bent (see page 4); or
2. The needle is too fine; or
3. The machine is dirty and not well oiled, so that it runs irregularly
The presser-foot must rest on the feed ONLY WHEN THERE IS MATERIAL BETWEEN
The shuttle-race must be kept perfectly clean
Material must not be pulled or pushed through the machine; the feed-teeth need no assistance
Do not allow any canvassers to touch your machine, as in all probability they will maliciously injure it
As machines are rather heavy, we advise users not to carry them about by the handle on the walnut cover, as this produces undue strain upon the lock, which might give way, and cause damage to the machine
If properly used, kept clean and regularly oiled, the machine will last a very long. Should, in course of years, any part become spoilt, or break, it can be immediately replaced by application to this office, and in most cases the parts can be refitted with ease. Should your machine seem to be so thoroughly out of order as to need alterations and repairs which you do not like to undertake personally, take it off the table and send it together with its attachments, and an explanation of the fault you found with it, to the place you bought it from, or direct to us for adjustment.